Serengeti National Park

After the thrill of the wildebeest crossing the prior day, our guides decided to show us what the fuss is all about by taking us to the Lamai wedge, the part of the Serengeti across the Mara right next to the Kenyan border. This landscape was completely different; few trees, just dry golden grass as far as you can see, an endless flat plain with hills in the distance. It is hotter, drier, and has incredibly even more wildebeest. More than once we had to stop and wait as the road was entirely taken up by wildebeest, calmly walking along. It was lovely, and you can see why the ungulates would want to come here to all this empty grazing. The dangers were apparent, though, as we came upon two cheetahs lounging in the grass. If they hadn’t been right next to the road, I’m not sure we could have seen them lounging there — they blended in rather too well! As the afternoon sun rose, the few trees developed clusters of animals crowding under their trunks, like a tree skirt but with more horns. Curiously while you can apparently fit about 30 wildebeest or zebra under a tree, apparently two cheetahs take up the whole shady spot.

In the evening, we returned to camp for a fabulous farewell dinner under the stars with local specialities. Stephen claims he had the best peanut soup of his life; it may have acquired some flavor from the friendly nearby camp lions calling out, apparently also fans of soup. Sadly I had developed a sinus infection and missed the dinner in favor of lying in bed moaning and taking Aleve; the lions fortunately decided I was a poor bet and avoided me.