June 25th
Cuzco
We start our day with a move to a different hotel, this one in a former monastery. A beautiful place, restored but with the central courtyard and chapel in place. The rooms are arranged around the central courtyard, some down short hallways and around corners. The corridors, once open-air, are now glassed-in, but the garden and fountain remain a focal point. The hotel art is a bit too topical, with hundreds of paintings of saints and martyrs on every available surface. Gregorian chants play at low volume throughout the public spaces, echoing quietly to create a spiritual calm.
Now that the festival is (nominally) over, we have a chance to
visit the city museums and the plazas. Many of the portable
remains of the Inca culture are here, close to their origins but
not at the sites themselves. When we visit the cities in
person, we can picture these bits of pottery and jewelry in place.
There is little left from the Inca culture, perhaps not
surprisingly given the thoroughness with which the conquistadors
looted the cities and temples. Nonetheless, there are few
clues to this huge and diverse empire to be found aside from mute
stone and half-remembered customs, some no doubt from the peoples
who lived here prior to the rise of the Inca. A sobering
thought as we pack and prepare for our travels through the Sacred
Valley.