January 4th
Yaxchilàn
A
busy day today, as we cross over into Mexico and the northern edge of the Mayan
territory. Several hours driving
on progressively less advanced roads brings us to the Usumacinta river, which
forms the border between Guatemala and Mexico. The countryside is quiet, cornfields and grazing herds. Only 20 years ago, the entire Peten was
inhabited by only about 40,000 souls, many members of modern Mayan tribes. The current 250,000 or so may represent
a significant increase, but they seem to rattle around this quiet shelf. Certainly the roads indicate no great
amount of traffic, and even the “Gallo Cerveza” signs trail off after a while.
At
the river, we switch to an alternative mode of transport owing to the lack of
both a bridge and a road on the Mexico side. We have, quite literally, reached the end of the road. No worries, though, as we transfer
(duffels and all) to a canoe-like riverboat. Sitting comfortably under a thatched roof, we proceed
downriver some 20 minutes to our lodge.
We unload, then continue another 45 minutes to Yaxchilàn. This site, accessible only by the
river, is splendid but quiet, a contrast to the more highly-trafficked sites
closer to modern cities. On this
cool afternoon after a rain, the jungle drips water on the ruins, seeming to
threaten to take them over again.
These monuments are less carefully preserved and marked, less tame
perhaps, giving a sense of their discovery. Unfortunately, what we gain in atmosphere we lose in ease of
access – no wooden staircases here!
We gingerly make our way uphill to the main plaza, sliding a bit on the
stone steps.
The
most prized artifacts of Yaxchilàn are the carved lintels above many of the
doorways. Although comparatively
small, these are highly detailed snapshots of key events in the lives of the
rulers of this smaller but influential city. As in many of these sites, some of the prized pieces have
disappeared over the years, and other have been copied and removed for
safety. The originals still on
site are hard to distinguish from the copies, they are so bright and
clear. Perhaps for this reason,
epigraphers have been able to learn a great deal about the family that ruled
here for hundreds of years, much of that time in association with Palenque to
the northeast.
One
of the large stepped temples has been left partially uncovered, allowing you to
slowly walk around it from jungle-covered hill to fully-restored glory. It is a thrilling progression, made
more powerful by the palpable presence of the surrounding trees. The temples here have an interesting
new feature – a honeycomb sort of pattern used either for astronomical
observations or wind channels. Apparently
just before a storm one of the buildings produces a distinct low tone – a
weather predictor? As we move
westward across the Mayan territories, we discover these intriguing
differences, regional specialties or preferences perhaps.
After further slippery progress around the site (limestone blocks are not known for their traction!), we head back upriver to our jungle lodge on the river. While thankfully featuring plumbing and electricity, the semi-open-air huts also provide a great deal of mosquito netting. It manages to be precisely half a step above a tent, the previous option for local room and board. It seems a long way from the gentle pleasures of Antigua.