December 28th
Copān
Our
first day of Mayan exploration takes us to Copān, one of the easternmost Mayan
cities, and one of the best preserved.
Rediscovered in the mid-1800s, it has been restored over decades by
several groups, most prominently Harvard University. The result is a very well-marked, well-restored site with
not one but two accompanying museums.
Temples are labeled, glyphs explained, and the overall use of the site
moderately well known. The
excavations extend to several smaller outlying structures and monuments erected
many kilometers away. There are
six miles of tunnels underneath the main site, used to investigate earlier
structures that were used as bases for new temples. Two of these are open to public view, for aspirational
archeologists. While surely there
is much more to be done, it is an impressively organized site.
Of
particular note in Copān is the hieroglyphic staircase, a long ceremonial
stairway in which all the faces of the steps are covered in glyphs. Every story or so, there is a large
central statue, oriented to the observer at the bottom. It must have been a very intimidating
entrance for a king to make, and a humbling climb for the petitioner. The stones of the steps fell down, of
course, creating a sort of crossword-cum-jigsaw puzzle that has intimidated
many researchers. Over the last 30
years, much of the Mayan writing system has been deciphered, making the puzzle
more rewarding to solve. Most of
the stones remain, and work on the restoration and preservation continues under
extensive coverings. Unfortunate
for the tourist, perhaps, but worth the trouble in the end. We attempt to capture the magnificence
from under green tarpaulin.
Another
marvelous sight at Copān is the ball court, a staple of Mesoamerican
cities. This is the fourth ball
court on the site – tunnels have revealed the former three, and reconstructions
await in the on-site museum. A
violent ritual game, from what is known, the ballgame was variously used to
torture captives and honor great warriors. Regardless of application, it does seem certain that someone
– winner or loser – died at the end.
The surely fast-paced game was played with two teams of four. They would manipulate an eight-pound
natural rubber ball without the use of their feet or hands. Scoring rules are unknown, but the
three stone macaw heads on each side seem significant. The sloping walls on either side of the
central alley seem reminiscent of early tennis games. It must have been a stirring sight, and fortunately the
surrounding stepped buildings provide a wonderful set of bleachers.
A
buried treasure under the city, discovered by way of determination and
tunneling, is the temple Rosalila.
Unlike most early structures, it was not partially demolished when it
was covered with a newer building.
When excavators reached it, they found it in fine condition, even
retaining some original paint. A
full-scale reproduction, elaborately painted, resides in the on-site
museum. Unfortunately the gods
must wish it reburied, as the roof of the museum recently collapsed, damaging
the replica. It is now undergoing
restoration, in an odd ironic turn of events.
In the evening we are treated to a demonstration by a local marimba band. Common across Central America, the marimba is the national instrument of Guatemala. In Honduras, it is most often accompanied by drums. The marimba is a zylophone-like instrument, with the sounds produced by gourds (or more recently steel coils) under wooden bars. Marimbas can be played by multiple people at once, allowing for multi-part harmony and octave accompaniments. This particular band has two drummers and six men on a two-part marimba. This superfluity of talent allows them to play incessantly…er…continuously for three hours. The marimba is perhaps an acquired taste. To my uneducated ear, all the songs sound exactly like the background music piped through carousels.