From Lonely Planet: "Nepal's most important Hindu temple stands on the banks of the Bagmati river, between Kathmandu and the airport and slightly south-west of Boudhanath. ... Not only is Pashupatinath the most important Hindu temple in Nepal, it's one of the most important Shiva temples on the sub-continent and draws numerous devotees from all over India, including many colourful sadhus, those wandering ascetic Hindu holy men.
Shiva is the destroyer and creator of the Hindu pantheon and appears in many forms. His 'terrible' forms are probably best known, particularly his appearances in Nepal as the cruel and destructive Bhairabs, but he also has peaceful incarnations including those of Mahadev and Pashupati, the lord of the beasts. As the shepard of both animals and humans, Shiva as Pashupati shows his most pleasant and creative side.
Pashupati is considered to have a special concern for Nepal and accordingly he features in any message from the king. Before commencing an important journey the king will always pay a visit to Pashupatinath to seek the god's blessing. Although Shiva is often a bloodthirsty god he is not so in his incarnation as Pashupati so no animal sacrifices are made here, although they are made at the nearby Guhyeshwari Temple. Nor is leather (since it comes from cows) allowed inside the temple and you will see Hindus removing their shoes before entering."
"The Bagmati is a holy river and, as at Varanasi on the Ganges, Pashupatinath is a popular place to be cremated. The burning ghats immediately in front of the temple, north of the footbridges, are reserved for the cremation of royalty although you will often see ritual bathing taking place in the river here.
The four square, cremation ghats just south of the bridges are for the common people and there is almost always a cremation going on. The log fires are laid, the shrouded body lifted on top, and the fire lit with remarkably little ceremony."
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